17th and 18th Centuries. In the first half of the 17 th century fashionable men wore lonc curled hair, often oiled, falling over wide, white collars. Frequently they displayed a longer lock tied with a bow, a neat moustache and a small, pointed beard, the Vandyke. Later in the 17 th century men shaved their faces and their beads, covering their heads with caps at home or long, full-bottomed, curled wigs in public. Women's hair in the first part of the 17th cen tury was flat on top with fringe on the forehead; wide crimped puffs, then bunched long curls over wire frames at the sides; and a coil high in back decorated with rosettes or a fine linen or lace cap. Gradually the butline became high and narrow as the cap became the tall, lacy fontange. In the 18th century, men continued to wear wigs but generally smaller and lighter ones, powdered white. Some wigs were tied back into a queue encased in a black silk bag, some were braided, and some were held by a black bow. The law, the army, and the navy each had its own style of wig. Some men wore their own hair n a queue. In the early part of the 18th century, women had trim little crimped or curled heads, powdered and decorated with garlands or bows. Widows, middle-class women, and women at home wore tiny caps. By the 1770's coiffures built over horsehair pads or wire cages, stuck with pomatum, and powdered with starch mounted three feet in the air. Some had springs to adjust the height. They were extravagantly adorned with feathers, ribbons, jewels, and even ships, gardens, and menageries. Such constructions required several hours work every one to three weeks. Between sessions the undisturbed coiffure was likely to attract vermin. In the 1780's a reaction against formality and extravagance led to the hŽrisson(hedgehog) style for men and women, a loose, bushy mass of curls. By this time hairdressers formed a distinct profession. The best were men, many of them trained as wigmakers. Especially notable was Legros de Rumigny, a former baker, who became court hairdresser in France, published the Art de la coiffure des dames (1765), and opened an Academie de Coiffure in 1769. 19th Century The French Revolution and Empire and the accompanying taste for simplicity and the antique had a great effect on hair styles. Both men and women cut their hair very short, like the Roman emperors, or women twisted their hair into Greek knots, with short curls framing the face, or later into smooth plaits around the head. They also wore colored wigs. Gradually as men became more concerned with commerce, they spent less time on their hair. In the 19 th century they kept it relatively short, sometimes curled and dressed with macassar oil. Most men wore some variety of mous tache, sideburns, or beard. By the 1830's women were dressing their hair standing rolls or loops on the crown, held by ribbons and combs, and short curls clustered at the temples. Beginning in the 1840's heads were sleek and demure, the hair oiled and smoothed down over the temples with long sausage curls at the side later with a heavy chignon of curls or Plaits in 'back. In the 1880's the front hair formed a crimped fringe. In the 1890's the pompadour of the Gibson Girl was combed over a pad making a high wide frame for the face, and swept up behind. Curls, crimping, and the natural-looking marcel wave were achieved by the use of heated irons, including the waving iron invented by the French hairdresser Marcel Grateau in the 1870's. Hair